Trailer Socket Connection with JAEGER ACF Module 12V: Relay Installation & Wiring Guide

Hi !
Someone knows how to connect this module to power the trailer socket.

I do not mean a direct connection, but through this relay, so as not to load the car installations, that's what it is for.

I searched on the net but can't find the schematic.

Do the regulations require the use of such a device? It seems to me that the workshops that install hooks in the vast majority of cases do not install such modules.
Should they mount them? Does anyone know about the topic?

It is a module responsible for the turn signals and stop lights. all four relays are used for "directions" themselves. The brake light is connected via this large double Shottky diode. It is a system with the control of the bulbs in the trailer. But only turn signal bulbs. One important thing is missing in all this ... Connecting and unfastening the fog light. Besides, please just imagine tapping two extra relays when turning. Now we have a bit advanced electronics. For example, systems withstand loads up to 25A. They fulfill the same role as the relay. In addition, there are 2 or 4 sections in one die. So we connect positional and directions (if 4 sections) Etc. ... I just accidentally sit in it ...

I have a question. maybe someone knows where I can buy such a relay (or someone has a sale - it is unnecessary) because mine, unfortunately, has died, and without it I have no directions, or possibly with what I can replace it with. wanted relay: JAEGER ACF MODUL 12 V, or a corresponding replacement.

Hello. I will connect to the topic because I have a hook and a 13-pin socket and it does not work. I checked at the lamp and the JAEGER CFC V-2 module is not connected there. Someone had contact with such a module, I have a connection to the directions and all the lights to the socket, but I do not know how to connect. I have such cables yellow black red / black red / blue and red / yellow brown mass connected. My question is how to connect the rest? Do I have these cables connected to the stop positions?

Hello

30 - + 12v (power)
31 - mass
L - left turn signal power supply (cable must be cut)
LZ - departure to the nest at the hook (left hand)
LH - exit to the lamp (this cable is cut)
R - right turn signal power supply (cable must be cut)
RZ - departure to the nest at the hook (right hand)
RH - go to the lamp (this cable is cut)
54H, 54Z - I don't know

Is it possible to skip this module?

Hello, I bought a hook rack with LED lamps, and here there is a problem, the turn signals flash quickly, both at once, after pressing the right or left direction on the handle. Emergency blinks normally, the rest of the lights are also normal. In the trunk I have the Un-05 module / circuit breaker, I guess it is the cause of this confusion with these directions. Is it possible to remake this module to support these LED lamps? If so, what would I have to replace in order for it to work as it should. If not, is there any replacement for this module / circuit breaker that supports LED lamps with the same plug as my old Un-05 or something that I could adapt to my harness? Below I have attached photos of this module / circuit breaker

i think you can skip the module - i did and all the hook harness problems are fixed. To omit it, you connect [RH-RZ-R] together and the same [LH-LZ-L]

Ok, okay, and did you check if after connecting these wires, for example, the LED directions in the trailer work normally for you? I have not checked if the car breaker / emergency switch (passat B5) supports LED directions? What about the cables marked (30) and (31)?

yarozz wrote:

What about the cables marked (30) and (31)?

These two wires are power, you don't do anything with them.
You connect the rest as colleague Br0k3R wrote.
The circuit breaker in your car will not even feel the load (LED), the directions will work as before.

Ok, but if there is a sticking to the trailer / beam, it will not be so beautiful and cheap.

andrzej20001 wrote:

Ok, but if there is a stick on the trailer / beam, it will not be so beautiful and cheap.

Then you connect RZ and R together and through the 5A RH fuse, similarly the other side, LZ, L together and through the fuse you fasten the LH.

marcin_wr wrote:

yarozz wrote:

What about the cables marked (30) and (31)?

These two wires are power, you don't do anything with them.
You connect the rest as colleague Br0k3R wrote.
The circuit breaker in your car will not even feel the load (LED), the directions will work as before.

So I disconnect the module from the ankle, connect the wires as Br0k3R wrote, and I can leave 30 and 31 in the ankle? Yes?

exactly

So yes, I did as you suggested and my LED indicators in the bicycle rack on the towbar work without this module. The only thing left for me to do is no fog light on the car, but here I suspect the socket of the hook, when it gets warmer, I will look at it.
And to think that it was possible to do it with such a simple method .
In the workshop that assembled the hooks, they wanted to replace the module with a new one for over PLN 300, and in the electronics store, install the lamp resistors, which is completely pointless, because I did not buy a trunk with LED lamps to load them with several dozen watt resistors.

The costs I incurred for this modification were the cost of buying 6 male clips for cables, i.e. PLN 1.80 :)

Thanks again and I post pictures as if someone else had a similar problem to mine.

it is better to insulate it so that the left and right indicators do not short-circuit I just cut the cables in front of the plug, connected them together and insulated

It is insulated , demonstration photos to show what and how . I didn't want to cut the cables to keep the original harness.

To marcin_wr: a slight mistake, it should be through the LZ and RZ fuse because they go to the hook ...

sherzo wrote:

To marcin_wr: a slight mistake, it should be through the LZ and RZ fuse because they go to the hook ...

According to the description of LZ and RZ, they are the direction indicators in the vehicle, and RH and LH are to go to the trailer socket.

I bought a hook with a 7pin socket for my audi a4 b5 FL 1999 with a light module and with reversing sensors. It was supposed to be complete and it is like in the photo.
I also have a module that was left to me once from another 13pin hook. Is it possible to connect it so that there is no error on the display after attaching the trailer (in another car with a factory hook there is no such problem)? The reversing sensors also detect an obstacle and still squeak without it, on the current beam of the hook that I made myself.
I would also like to connect this hook to the meter, as in the original, but I do not necessarily know which wire to connect at the meter.

The new module, eg WH0, costs PLN 80. Installation is very simple.

andrzej20001 wrote:

The new module, eg WH0, costs PLN 80. Installation is very simple.

Thank you. I needed something like that. Just tell me how to connect it to the meter? Will I not get it?

What for a counter? You connect it to the lamps and to the battery plus a harness for the hook socket.

WH0 module does not support reverse sensors. This is not what the descriptions at the auctions show.

My friends jaeger too. All you need is a socket with a microswitch and you can turn off the sensors, just like a button in the cabin. For the sensitive ...

Just that there is no such switch for me. Maybe someone will know how to connect my module.

Let me dig out the topic.
I have a UN-05 module and a problem. With the ignition on, all turn signals are working properly. But when I turn on my hazard flashers with the ignition off, the front and sides work fine, but the rear flashes instead of flashing, and you can hear chirps coming from the module. How can I get around it, even at the expense of the voltage on the socket (it doesn't need a hook and I will never use it) to keep everything working? I just tried to unplug the plug, however then the rear directions didn't work at all. Should I do this like user yarozz?

Here is a video showing what it looks like: https://youtu.be/Mm4NyDiMdyI

damiangl wrote:

Should I do it like user yarozz

I think you have this module released. Try to do as I do, it should work, check it out.

Damaged relay in the module if you have the main power supply from the fuse on it