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Wiring Diagram for 13-Pin Trailer Socket Connection (Germany)

Miś21 204847 44
Best answers

How do I wire a German 13-pin trailer socket to the trailer lights and power supply?

Wire the 13-pin socket as follows: 1 left indicator (44L), 2 rear fog light, 3 common ground for pins 1–8 (31), 4 right indicator (44R), 5 right position light (58R), 6 brake light (54), 7 left position light (58L), 8 reverse light (62), 9 permanent + from the battery, 10 + after ignition, 11 reserve, 12 reserve, and 13 common ground for pins 9–12 (31) [#6348607] Use a thicker ground wire than the others because pin 13 carries the common return current; one reply recommends about 1 mm² for ground and 0.75 mm² for the other wires, and to keep the socket protected from water [#6348607] If your socket has the fog-lamp disconnect contact, it is used to switch off the car’s rear fog light and light the trailer fog lamp instead when the plug is inserted [#11754861] The fog-light return/contact is specifically used for this automatic cut-off [#21171273]
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  • #1 1276208
    Miś21
    Level 11  
    I am urgently looking for a diagram of connecting the 13-pin socket (Germany) to the trailer.
    Please help.
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  • #2 1276464
    Heroses
    Level 24  
    To be honest, I've never seen a nest like this before. As a rule, they all have the same descriptions of the pins, so in order
    30 > Weight
    58 L > left parking light
    58 R > Right parking lamp
    54 > STOP
    L > Left turn signal
    R > Right turn signal
    + or 54+ > Auxiliary lamp (fog lamp)

    These are the basic lights that entitle you to move on the roads.
  • #4 6348607
    staszekel
    Level 1  
    13 pin socket connection:
    pin. no. - description
    1. 44L - left direction indicator,
    2. 52 - rear fog lights,
    3. 31 - common ground for terminals (1-8),
    4. 44R - right direction indicator,
    5. 58R - right position light,
    6. 54 - brake light,
    7. 58L - left position light,
    8. 62 - reversing light,
    9. (+) -plus from the battery terminal,
    10. (+) -plus after switching the ignition switch,
    11. free - reserve,
    12. free - reserve,
    13. 31 - common ground for terminals (9-12).

    This is how the 13-pin socket with tin-plated wire ends should be connected.
    Wire colors vary from country to country.
    With us, I suggest black or brown for a mass with a larger cross-section than the others, because the mass is common and a greater current flows through this wire than in the others.
    I suggest (0.75mm^2) and for mass 1mm^2. With smaller cross-sections, there will be greater voltage drops and the cable will work as a resistance, which can be seen in the form of oxidized wires. I think it's all about the socket.
    It is good to protect them from getting water.
    Kind regards.
  • #5 6790612
    borbet
    Level 13  
    staszekel wrote:
    13 pin socket connection:
    pin. no. - description
    1. 44L - left direction indicator,
    2. 52 - rear fog lights,
    3. 31 - common ground for terminals (1-8),
    4. 44R - right direction indicator,
    5. 58R - right position light,
    6. 54 - brake light,
    7. 58L - left position light,
    8. 62 - reversing light,
    9. (+) -plus from the battery terminal,
    10. (+) -plus after switching the ignition switch,
    11. free - reserve,
    12. free - reserve,
    13. 31 - common ground for terminals (9-12).

    This is how the 13-pin socket with tin-plated wire ends should be connected.
    Wire colors vary from country to country.
    With us, I suggest black or brown for a mass with a larger cross-section than the others, because the mass is common and a greater current flows through this wire than in the others.
    I suggest (0.75mm^2) and for mass 1mm^2. With smaller cross-sections, there will be greater voltage drops and the cable will work as a resistance, which can be seen in the form of oxidized wires. I think it's all about the socket.
    It is good to protect them from getting water.
    Kind regards.


    I have 2 questions:

    1. Can connectors 3 and 13 (mass) be shorted together in the socket? I connect the 13 pin volvo V70 socket (to the factory connector) and there is only 1 thick mass (approximately 4mm^2) and I will use the same cross-section for pin no. 4. It may be better to lead an additional cable from pin 13 (e.g. 2.5mm^ 2) and screw somewhere to the ground of the car?

    2. What should pin 2a (anti-fog return) be connected to? Volvo did not provide such a pin in the hook cube, so maybe it will not be needed. Make a spare wire?

    Thanks in advance for your answers

    PZDR
  • #6 6790669
    viper555
    Level 39  
    Of course they can be connected together, the only question is whether you will be driving with a caravan because pins 9-13 are intended for this, therefore such a mass cross-section, if not, these pins are unnecessary. Secondly, if you have a socket without a detachable fog lamp, the return will be unnecessary on the trailer and the car.P
  • #7 6790693
    borbet
    Level 13  
    viper555 wrote:
    Of course they can be connected together, the only question is whether you will be driving with a caravan because pins 9-13 are intended for this, therefore such a mass cross-section, if not, these pins are unnecessary. Secondly, if you have a socket without a detachable fog lamp, the return will be unnecessary on the trailer and the car.P


    I am improving the nest after the tinkers and I want to do it properly and developmentally. Maybe someday I'll pull a house on wheels...

    As for the cross-section of this 2nd mass, do 2.5 or 4mm^2?

    And as for the PM, it is somehow disconnected by the electronics of the car, but I would have to upload some soft in ASO or non-ASO. It will turn out after plugging in the fuse and the test with the PM turned on.

    PZDR
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  • #8 6790733
    viper555
    Level 39  
    If you want original, then 13-4mm², while 3-2.5mm² is the maximum and it's best to connect each separately to ground.P
  • #9 6790778
    borbet
    Level 13  
    viper555 wrote:
    If you want the original, then 13-4mm², while 3-2.5mm² is the maximum and it's best to connect each separately to ground.P


    Or is it better the other way around? I will mainly use the 7pin adapter, i.e. ground 3 will be in use. At the factory, the mass in the hook harness connector is 4mm^2 and there is only one mass.
    Or maybe for 3 and 13 give 4mm^2?

    PZDR
  • #10 6792505
    viper555
    Level 39  
    Wiring Diagram for 13-Pin Trailer Socket Connection (Germany)

    Why correct the original.P
  • #11 6799065
    borbet
    Level 13  
    viper555 wrote:
    Wiring Diagram for 13-Pin Trailer Socket Connection (Germany)

    Why correct the original.P


    The original is for a plug with pins to which the hook harness connector plugs. I have the original hook, but the socket was poorly made.
    I've already made a mega-beam with pluses and one mass 2.5mm^2 the second mass 4mm^2 and the rest 1.5mm^2 (including 2 free pins). The cross-sections per eye are comparable to those in the original connector (not to be confused with the socket) of the hook.
    Now you have to pull it through the trunk opening and attach it to the hook connector.

    PZDR
  • #12 7213551
    Pejter_aggro
    Level 11  
    commercially available cubes that can be attached to the lamps and then everything looks elegant and professional. This is the solution I used in Sharan
  • #15 8435006
    bjorn1954
    Level 2  
    It was ok in Kangoo, but for some time it started to happen like this, and maybe the rear fog light has an impact on it, because when I turn it on, the front lights up and the back does not, I checked the bulb is ok, where to look, where to start

    Added after 2 [minutes]:

    it happens as if the current was missing a bulb because this is usually what happens when a bulb burns out, then other directions shine with a higher frequency
  • #16 8493120
    bjorn1954
    Level 2  
    Can I ask someone who knows about electricity to tell me if it is possible to connect a bundle of wires from the hook socket directly to the wires at the lamp without the need to have a jaeger relay. It is practically unavailable, and I have a harness to the hook where this relay should be.
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  • #17 8493762
    Zico63
    Level 37  
    And what car is it?
    In vehicles without a CAN bus, you can simply, and in new ones with such a bus (bus), there must be a controller, the computer will read the connection of an additional load as a "failure"
  • #18 8511472
    bjorn1954
    Level 2  
    This is a French Renault Kangoo from 2000. I know that there is a place for the Jaeger driver in the bundle, but I don't know if there is a can rail.
  • #19 8511791
    Przemo9826
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    In this vintage, you can go ahead and join the installation of lamps.
  • #20 8520823
    mgen
    Level 11  
    And I have another minor problem but also with the 13p dice ;)

    Auto - OPEL VECTRA C (with factory module)
    In the 13-pin cube, my STOP light disappears. i.e. when you press the brake and hold, the light in the trailer comes on and disappears after a second. The rest of the lights are ok.
    Because I have to tow a trailer before I diagnose this module, do you think it will be very bad if I take the STOP itself from the rear lamp but only to control the relay coil, which will give + to the STOP of the trailer from e.g. the battery?
    Such a car relay loads the installation in mA, so the vehicle's computer should not detect it.
  • #21 8520872
    Zico63
    Level 37  
    It may be, I think: 42W of a trailer STOP is only 3.5A, and even a miniature relay that takes milliamps can handle that much. And the plus is in the nest!
  • #22 8520971
    mgen
    Level 11  
    Zico63 wrote:
    It may be, I think: 42W of a trailer STOP is only 3.5A, and even a miniature relay that takes milliamps can handle that much. And the plus is in the nest!


    Rightly! Thanks.
  • #23 9138546
    ziemek56
    Level 22  
    And my question is:
    I want to attach the "old" 7 pin socket next to the 13 pin socket (factory in Renault Kangoo) so that I can tow a regular trailer. I have both pins.
    Can I just connect the taps to the back of the socket?
    Won't the computer growl. because he senses the "stranger"?

    Sorry to revive an old topic but a new one
    Thank you very much, Ziemowit.
  • #24 9138688
    Zico63
    Level 37  
    If there is a computer - the socket should be connected via a module to the CAN system (or with a different name, but separating the socket from the installation) and then connecting the next socket will be "ganz egal" to the computer; when there is no computer on board - it is all the more indifferent. However, a note applies to both cases: you should pin the load ( read . trailer) to only one at a time socket, for reasons of electrical strength of the wires.
    But I have another suggestion: "adapter-adapter - 13pin/7pin" - after putting these words by a friend in Google, everything will be clear.
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  • #25 9138789
    ziemek56
    Level 22  
    I've heard about the adapter, but a typical blonde will drive and that's why I prefer to do it in a peasant way. Of course, only one plugin at a time.
    Beautiful thanks. I'm doing it tomorrow or Monday. After checking, of course, I will send a message in the subject. Ziemowit.
  • #26 9139050
    Zico63
    Level 37  
    I will supplement my previous post. Well, someone might think about my post: "Is he crazy? What does he write, what two trailers at once?”
    Well, I recently saw (I drove past several intersections) a Fiat Doblo pulling a trailer with a load covering the factory trailer lamps. The owner came up with a similar idea, he set up two sockets - to the second one he connected the so-called "beam", i.e. lamps mounted on a beam made of a board or some profile, repeating the factory trailer lamps. He had a good idea, but he executed it tragically: he probably hooked "live" to the wires to the lamps of the vehicle, already powered by threadlike Fiat wires - instead of professionally making new, thick cables, power sockets and on relays (something like a module for CAN ). As a result, nothing shone as it should: car lamps, trailers and beams barely glowed (e.g. when braking + direction indicators) and what happened to the vehicle's cables - scary to think.
    Hence my comments.
  • #27 9143136
    ziemek56
    Level 22  
    I also often use the "beam", especially when you need to quickly and ... poop in the trailer. But then only a beam - obvious to me. Thank you again.
  • #28 9315659
    PKi
    Level 21  
    Hello, what fuses to protect the permanent plus and plus after the ignition switch?
  • #29 9316229
    Zico63
    Level 37  
    Depending on the equipment used and the connection method (e.g. contact 15 is it through a relay; in fact, it should always be like this!) - I would recommend not to exceed 20A per thirty - constant plus and 15A on 15 plus after the station. More is not needed and it will not stand the socket / plug either!
  • #30 11754541
    goliat777
    Level 1  
    viper555 wrote:
    Wiring Diagram for 13-Pin Trailer Socket Connection (Germany)

    Why correct the original.P


    what is this gray contactor with two gray cables for. when i put the plug in what does it turn on.???
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the wiring diagram for a 13-pin trailer socket connection commonly used in Germany. Users seek assistance in connecting the socket to a trailer, sharing various pin configurations and wiring recommendations. Key points include the identification of pin functions such as left/right indicators, fog lights, brake lights, and ground connections. Users also discuss the importance of wire gauge for proper current flow and voltage drop prevention, suggesting specific sizes for different connections. Additionally, there are inquiries about integrating the 13-pin socket with existing 7-pin setups and the implications of vehicle electronics, particularly in cars with CAN bus systems. The conversation highlights the necessity of using appropriate fuses and the potential need for relay modules to manage electrical loads effectively.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 20 A is the stated fuse ceiling for a constant-plus feed, and “connect each ground separately” for reliability [Elektroda, Zico63, #9316229; viper555, #6790733]. Follow the pin map below to avoid lamp errors. Why it matters: Correct 13-pin wiring keeps lights legal, prevents CAN faults, and protects up to 3.5 A per lamp circuit.

Quick Facts

• Pin 3 & 13 are both grounds; pin 3 serves lights, pin 13 powers caravan feeds [Elektroda, staszekel, post #6348607] • Wire sizes: 0.75 mm² for lights, 1–4 mm² for grounds, 4 mm² if caravan fridge is used [Elektroda, staszekel, #6348607; viper555, #6790733]. • Fuse ratings: ≤20 A on constant +30, ≤15 A on ignition +15 [Elektroda, Zico63, post #9316229] • Load limit: one 42 W stop circuit draws 3.5 A [Elektroda, Zico63, post #8520872] • 13→7-pin adapters cost approx. €10–15 online (eBay listing).

What is the standard 13-pin trailer socket wiring diagram?

Pins 1-8 handle lighting: 1-left indicator, 2-rear fog, 3-ground (lights), 4-right indicator, 5-right side light, 6-brake, 7-left side light, 8-reverse. Pins 9-13 power caravans: 9-constant +30, 10-ignition +15, 11–12 spares, 13-ground (aux). Colours vary by market [Elektroda, staszekel, post #6348607]

What wire cross-section should I choose for each pin?

Use 0.75 mm² for lamps, 1 mm² minimum for common ground, and 2.5–4 mm² when powering caravan appliances from pins 9–13 [Elektroda, staszekel, #6348607; viper555, #6790733].

How big should the fuses be for the permanent and ignition feeds?

Place a 20 A fuse on pin 9 (+30) and a 15 A fuse on pin 10 (+15) when switched by a relay [Elektroda, Zico63, post #9316229]

What does pin 2a (fog‐light return) do and must I wire it?

Pin 2a disables the car’s rear fog lamp when the trailer plug is inserted, preventing glare [Elektroda, esox53, post #21171273] If your socket lacks the internal switch, leave pin 2a open; the fog will stay on both vehicles.

How do I retrofit a 13-pin socket on a CAN-bus car like VW Passat B5?

Fit a dedicated towing module (Jaeger, Westfalia). It reads lamp signals, powers the socket through relays, and prevents bulb-out warnings [Elektroda, Zico63, post #8493762] Universal modules also work when wired per diagram and coded with VCDS.

Is there a quick way to convert to old 7-pin trailers?

Use a molded 13-to-7 pin adapter; it preserves pin 3 ground and maps lighting pins correctly. Cost is about €10–15 and avoids wiring two sockets that could overload circuits [Elektroda, Zico63, post #9138688]

Why do my trailer brake lights go out after one second?

A weak factory module can’t supply 3.5 A to two 21 W bulbs. Use the lamp wire only to trigger a relay, then feed the trailer stop circuit from pin 9 constant +30 [Elektroda, mgen, post #8520823]

How can I stop the car’s fog lamp when towing without a fancy module?

Install a socket with an internal microswitch: bridge the car’s fog feed (wire 2) through the switch to the trailer’s pin 2. When the plug inserts, the switch opens and the car fog turns off [Elektroda, borbet, post #16306220]

What’s a safe 3-step method to wire a new 13-pin socket?

  1. Crimp wires to pins using colour map above; slide gland. 2. Mount 20 A and 15 A fuses near battery on feeds 9 and 10. 3. Test each lamp with a multimeter and a 21 W bulb load before road use. Fault-free test prevents CAN errors [Elektroda, multiple posts].

Do wire colours always match the EU diagram?

No. German looms often swap brown/black positions lights, while Scandinavian looms may use grey for constant +30. Confirm each wire with a test lamp; mis-colour is a common failure cause [Elektroda, ericssoun3m, post #19729104]

Can I run two sockets at once for a light bar and trailer?

Avoid it. Parallel sockets double current and can dim all lamps or melt thin OEM cables, as one Fiat Doblo owner discovered [Elektroda, Zico63, post #9139050] Use one socket and a Y-split only if rewired with 2.5 mm² leads.
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